The Secret Gems of St. Croix

A gem hidden among the more popular Caribbean destinations, a haven away from the tourist traps and tchotchkes that clutter the beaches and streets of so many other islands. It’s not a place where you’ll immerse yourself in a Hollywood-level dining experience or a luxurious five-star hotel stay. It’s a diamond in the rough, a phoenix fighting to rise from the ashes after a devastating loss of industry in 2012. St. Croix is a community of people strong in spirit, if not in numbers, under the nearly equatorial sun. Island neighbors with unmistakable pride in their land and a hospitality that extends far beyond the beachfront.

It is this community spirit that has the La Reine Chicken Shack humming on any given day. A nondescript stop along one of the many winding roads, diners huddled around picnic tables at lunch time, plates piled high with bits of spicy chicken and Johnny cakes. The patio is a gathering place, drinks in hand, every available chair surrounding the domino game splayed out before them. Behind the busy kitchen counter is frenetic movement, bags of orders handed off as soon as they arrive, a stream of cars stopping for food.

If you’re lucky, you might get in an invitation to Betty’s Kitchen while you’re on the island – a small wooden shack perched on the front corner of Betty’s own front yard. When Betty’s done in her kitchen – a worn and torn mobile kitchen parked in her backyard – dishes will arrive on the flowered tablecloth as they’re finished – fried okra, potato salad, conch in butter, fried red snapper you’ll pick to the bones, and a traditional Crucian stuffing to satisfy your sweet tooth. You’ll quickly make it to Betty’s side if you’re late for your reservation, and she might withhold the ice-cold, freshly-pressed cherry juice until you apologize.

During your Crucian Heritage and Nature Tourism (CHANT) tour of Frederiksted, you might start to feel a little sleepy learning the history of Fort Frederick. You won’t be able to bring your coffee on the Gecko’s Island Adventures tour, but Cindy and Arlin will treat you right and make sure you stay safe on that ATV, even through the periodic island rainstorms.

Two Sides to Every Island

In Christiansted, take a short stroll around the block, just off the main path through a lush, tree-covered garden path, for a late afternoon meal at Café Christine, showcasing the incredible greens, meat, and seafood available on the island – and the daily selection of pies baked by Christine herself.

After a few days, when your heartbeat slows to a steady purr and your mind has filed away the frenetic concerns of your usual schedule, you’ll notice yourself becoming a part of the island’s extended family. You might bump into Kris and Whalen, purveyors of IB Designs in Christiansted, on your search for a signature island hook bracelet, with their infinite take on the classic design, to remember your sunny island travels.

How can you get in on this community feel, this invitation to traditional plates and people, dirt paths that lead to scenic views, miles of sand, surf, and green hills that extend before you in every direction? Where is this treasured escape from the commercialized, touristy island culture so often found in the Caribbean?

Well, I’m not sure I really want to tell you.

I just want to keep St. Croix all to myself.

St. Croix has a lot of what most people can’t see. It hasn’t been overly developed and commercialized. It is sleepier and less traveled than its USVI sister islands. It has remained surprisingly authentic and uncomplicated – and its story is told in the land (sugar plantations, European, African and West Indian influences, and agriculture).  The people are just themselves, not a modernized image of what they should be.  The experiences are true – and stir the soul.

– Wendy Solomon, GoToStCroix.com

~Jennifer Heigl

*Photo credit: Jennifer Heigl / Daily Blender; group photo – Wendy Solomon, GoToStCroix.com

**This post was developed through a press familiarization trip to St. Croix hosted by the USVI Department of Tourism. Many thanks to all for the invitation.**